Where to Store Your Camper This Winter: Home, a Storage Lot or the Campground

The last trip of the season is done and the cooler's back in the garage. The camper is sitting in the driveway, and the first hard frost is in the forecast. You have three good places to keep it until spring: at home, in a commercial storage lot (open, covered or indoor), or at a campground that stores rigs. Your winter, your budget and what the rig is worth decide which one fits. Here's what each one costs and when it makes sense.

01The short answer

There are three real choices:

• At home. It's free if your HOA and city allow it, and you can walk out and check on the rig any time.
• A commercial storage lot. Typical monthly ranges are about $30–$100 for open outdoor spots, $50–$150 for covered and $100–$450 for indoor. Another guide puts them at $30–$100 outdoor, $70–$125 covered and about $135 indoor. Covered spots usually run $20 to $50 a month more than open ones, and the roof keeps off snow load and sun.
• A campground that offers storage. Rates vary by park, so call and ask.

Here's how to pick. An open outdoor spot works for a lot of trailers, as long as the rig has a good cover and a fresh roof inspection. Indoor storage is worth the money if the rig is expensive or your winters are hard. In the snow belt, plan on roughly $300 to $900 for a six-month winter at a mid-range lot, before any towing. Treat all these numbers as ballpark figures. Guides disagree, and prices depend heavily on where you live.

02Storing it at home

Home is the cheapest choice and the easiest one to keep an eye on. You can start the generator now and then, check for leaks after a storm and spot mouse trouble early. Before you back it in for the season, check two sets of rules.

HOA covenants (CC&Rs). These can be stricter than city code, and they're enforceable in most states. California is the main exception: HOAs there generally can't regulate parking on public streets unless they have an agreement with the city.

City code. On residential streets, the most common limit is 72 hours, and you can't sleep in the rig. Some places are tighter. New York City allows 24 hours, many residential areas of Anchorage allow 24, Las Vegas allows 72 hours in a row, and most Kansas cities allow 48 to 72. Driveway rules vary too:

• Michigan: Many cities require an 8-foot setback from public sidewalks and cap length at 45 feet.
• Texas: Cities often limit overnight driveway occupancy to about 14 days.
• Illinois suburbs and Alabama: About 10 feet of setback is common.

Winter parking bans. In snow country, the plow schedule decides where you can park. Many Maine towns ban overnight street parking all winter. In Ellsworth it's midnight to 6 a.m. from November 1 to April 1, and cars that block plowing get towed. In Vermont, Brattleboro bans overnight parking on all public streets from about November 15 to April 15, even when there's no snow, and violators can be towed at the owner's expense. A camper left on the street there in December won't stay put for long.

These rules change from town to town, so read your local ordinance before counting on any of them.

03Commercial storage: outdoor, covered or indoor

If home won't work, a storage lot is the usual answer. StorageCafe put the national average for all RV storage at about $184 a month in September 2026. A 10'x20' unit without climate control averaged about $192, and a 10'x30' unit about $256. Open outdoor spaces cost the least, covered spots cost a bit more, and climate-controlled indoor units cost the most.

Rig type matters too. One guide lists travel trailers at about $75 to $130 or more a month and pop-ups at about $75 to $130. Class A, B and C motorhomes start around $130. Rec Nation's estimate for travel trailers and fifth wheels is $50–$150 outdoors and $100–$250 for covered or indoor.

Location matters just as much. Rec Nation's broad averages:

• Sun Belt (Phoenix): about $50–$150
• Cold markets (Michigan): about $100–$250
• Big metros (New York City, San Francisco): about $150–$300

Its season totals for 3 months are $300–$900 outdoors, $450–$1,200 covered and $600–$1,500 indoor. For 6 months, it's $600–$1,800 outdoors, $900–$2,400 covered and $1,200–$3,000 indoor.

Then come the extras, which Rec Nation estimates at:

• Towing or transport: $100–$500 or more
• Winterization: $100–$300
• De-winterization: $100–$200
• Admin or setup fees: $50–$200

Timing. Rates often go up in late fall, as everyone has the same idea around Halloween. Booking early helps, and some facilities give a discount if you prepay or rent long-term.

Measure before you reserve. Most RVs are 10 to 15 feet tall and 7 to 10 feet wide, but standard storage units have ceilings of about 8 feet. Measure the whole rig, including mirrors, ladders, the AC unit and anything else on the roof.

04Campground or park storage

Some campgrounds and RV resorts store rigs on site over the winter. RJourney, for example, offers storage at parks including Baraboo RV Resort in Wisconsin and Cedar City RV Resort in Utah, with current rates by phone.

The big advantage is that the camper never has to move. You skip the tow and can winterize it right where it sits. The catch is that space is limited, and seasonal guests get first claim. If you have a seasonal site, ask about winter storage when you renew in the fall, not after the first snow.

05Prep that matters wherever it sits

A camper in a heated building still needs to be put away properly. One parked in an open field needs it even more. Start with the owner's manual. It overrides any general checklist, including this one, especially for tire pressure and battery care.

• Water system. Winterize it using only non-toxic RV antifreeze. Never use automotive antifreeze. If your area gets only occasional freezes, pour RV antifreeze into each sink trap, the toilet and the shower drain. If the rig will sit through steady freezing, have a qualified service center do the job.
• Batteries. Charge them fully, then take them out. In harsh weather, store them at home on wooden blocks with a maintenance charger. Ask the storage facility before leaving a maintainer hooked up on site.
• Tires. Keep them at the manufacturer's recommended pressure. Park each tire on a square of heavy plywood instead of cold ground, and use tire covers where the sun hits them.
• Moisture. Run a desiccant or a dehumidifier, and empty it regularly. Leave a roof vent partly open so air can move.
• Pests. Empty the pantry and every cabinet, since a forgotten bag of marshmallows is an open invitation. Screen the openings for the water heater and fridge. If the rig is stored outside, use an RV cover and a skirt.
• Insurance. One guide suggests pausing collision and liability coverage while the rig is in storage. Talk to your insurer before changing anything, and ask what still covers theft, storm damage or a fallen tree.

06How to choose

• Mild winter and you can visit often: An outdoor spot, or home if the rules allow, with a good cover is usually enough.
• Snow, ice or long freezes: Look at covered or indoor storage. Snow load and freeze-thaw cycles are hard on roofs and seals.
• Expensive or newer rig: Indoor storage protects it best, and the extra cost is small next to a roof repair.
• Older pop-up or small trailer on a tight budget: Home storage or an open lot, done carefully, is a reasonable trade.
• You camp at the same park every summer: Ask about on-site storage first and skip the tow.

Whichever way you lean, get two or three local quotes this month. Ask each place about prepay or long-term discounts, extra fees and how often you can get to your rig. Booked before Thanksgiving, most lots still have open spots.

Sources (9)

• RJourney: RV Winter Storage
• CamperFAQs: How Much Does It Cost to Store an RV
• VEHQ: RV Street Parking State by State
• StorageCafe: RV Storage
• Rec Nation: Winter Camper Storage Cost
• Public Storage: How to Winterize an RV for Storage
• RV.com: Winter RV Storage Checklist
• City of Ellsworth, Maine: Winter Parking Ban
• Town of Brattleboro, Vermont: Winter Parking

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