There's nothing like hot coffee on a cold camp morning, and nothing more frustrating than a stove that sputters out when it's below freezing. The fuel you choose makes a big difference.
01Canister stoves (isobutane/propane mix)
The small screw-on canisters used by backpacking stoves.
- Cold weakness: as the canister cools, the fuel vaporizes less and pressure drops. Near freezing, performance falls off; in hard cold, they can barely run.
- Help it out: keep the canister warm in your sleeping bag or jacket overnight, put it in a shallow pan of cool water while cooking, or use a stove designed to run the canister inverted (liquid feed), which handles cold better.
- Blends matter: canisters with more propane do better in cold than butane-heavy ones.
02Liquid-fuel stoves (white gas)
Pressurized by pumping the fuel bottle.
- Best in the cold: they work well far below freezing, which is why winter campers and mountaineers use them.
- Trade-offs: heavier, need priming and occasional maintenance, and take a little practice.
03Propane (the green bottles and bigger tanks)
The classic two-burner car-camping stove.
- Decent in the cold, better than butane canisters, and a bulk tank is cheap to run.
- Heavy, so best for car camping.
- Bring extra fuel in cold weather; stoves burn more fuel when it's cold and windy.
04Tips that work with any stove
- Block the wind. A windscreen saves fuel and time (follow the stove's instructions so the canister doesn't overheat).
- Use a lid. Water boils much faster covered.
- Start with water from your bottle, not ice or snow, when you can.
- Keep fuel warm overnight.
- Cook outside the tent, never inside. See tent heaters: what's safe.
For fall car camping, a two-burner propane stove is hard to beat. If you backpack into the cold, look at liquid fuel. Then make something warm: easy fall campfire recipes.
Photo: Campers cooking macaroni and cheese by Iburiedpaul from District of Columbia, CC BY 2.0.
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